Viking Window — Window Cleaning Guide

Quick Facts

Brand at a Glance

Product Range

Why This System

Step 1 of 2: Manufacturer Recommendations

Official Care Guidance

Glass

• ✓Use a proper window washing kit and a suitable glass cleaning product.
• ✓Use non-aggressive glass cleaning products only.
• ✕Do not use glass maintenance products containing silicone - silicone leaves a film that attracts dirt and is very difficult to remove.
• ✕Do not use glass maintenance products containing abrasive particles.
• ✓Clean the glass with a soft cloth or squeegee.

Timber (Pine Interior) Frames

• ✓Clean with a soft damp cloth and mild soapy water.
• ✕Do not saturate the timber surface - use a damp cloth, not a wet one.
• ✕Do not use solvents, alcohol-based products, or aggressive chemical cleaners on timber surfaces.
• ✕Do not use abrasive products or scouring pads on the timber finish.
• ✓Contact Viking Window directly for recommendations on re-treatment of exposed pine interior surfaces.

Aluminium-Clad Exterior Frames

• ✓Clean with a soft cloth and mild soapy water.
• ✓Rinse thoroughly after cleaning.
• ✕Do not use solvents on powder-coated aluminium surfaces - solvent damage to powder coating is permanent.
• ✕Do not use acidic or bleach-based cleaners.
• ✕Do not use abrasive products, steel wool, or scouring pads.

Hardware

• ✓Clean locking points and locks at least twice per year.
• ✓Lubricate locking points with Ruko lock oil, preferably twice per year.
• ✕Do not use WD-40 or general-purpose oil on locking mechanisms - these attract dust and gum up over time.
• ✓Contact Viking Window or your installer for hardware adjustment and hinge maintenance.

Gaskets and Seals

• ✕Do not use solvents to clean gaskets - solvents cause permanent damage to rubber seals.
• ✓Clean gaskets with a soft damp cloth and mild soapy water only.
• ✓Inspect gaskets annually for cracking, shrinkage, or gaps.
• ✓Contact your installer if gaskets show signs of deterioration.

Drainage

• ✓Keep drainage channels and slots clear of debris, leaves, and dirt.
• ✓Check drainage points at least twice per year - blocked drainage causes water pooling inside the frame system.
• ✓Clear blocked drainage with a soft brush or damp cloth. Do not use sharp tools.

Step 2 of 2: The Orloffs Protocol

The Orloffs Protocol

Pro Tools

My daily tool list. This is what I carry to every job.

Follow these steps in order. Each one builds on the last. This is the same sequence I use on every Viking Window installation.

1. 1

   Preparation -- before any water touches the glass

   Fill the bucket with at least 10 litres of water. Add soap for cleaning power -- enough to cut through environmental deposits, not so much you are fighting foam.

   Before touching the glass, brush down the surface to remove loose dust, spiderwebs, and debris. Any grit left on the glass during the wash phase risks scratching during agitation.

   Check the composite frame condition before you start. Confirm which cleaning product is safe for that surface before opening any bottle.

   Cover anything below the windows that cannot be moved.

2. 2

   Agitation -- apply and work the solution

   Dip the microfiber T-bar completely into the soap water, both sides. Remove excess water with your hand so it does not drip. Apply the solution across the entire glass surface with overlapping passes.

   The goal is to fully dissolve and release every deposit from the glass surface. Anything not released during agitation gets transported across the glass by the squeegee as a smear.

   For stubborn spots -- insect marks, salt residue, environmental deposits -- re-apply soap water and allow it to soak for a full minute before agitating again. Use more soap water, not more pressure.

   For panels above arm reach: attach the T-bar to an extension pole. Work in sections -- top first, then middle, then bottom -- keeping each section wet until you squeegee it.

   Rinse the T-bar cover regularly during the job. A dirty applicator causes microscopic scratches that accumulate over time.

3. 3

   Detail the frame edge before squeegeeing

   Use your 100% cotton towelling rag, finger pressed into the fabric, to work into every junction and remove pooled soap water before the squeegee pass.

   This prevents drips running down onto already-cleaned areas during squeegeeing and keeps soap water out of drainage channels.

   On Viking Window composite frames, pay particular attention to the bottom edge where glass meets the frame sill -- water pooled here runs into drainage openings and leaves residue over time.

4. 4

   The squeegee

   Tilt the squeegee at a slight angle so soap water spills from one side of the channel only -- not both. If the rubber is jumping or squeaking, either the rubber is not lubricated enough or the glass surface has warmed.

   Cutting in: start with the rubber blade making first contact on a dry edge of the glass.

   Side to side: horizontal passes across the panel. Works well on wide sections. Top to bottom: vertical passes down the panel. Works well on tall narrow sections.

   The J tune: one smooth unbroken motion top to bottom, wrist rotating at each end to reverse without lifting the rubber. The most efficient method on larger panels -- but it requires training before applying it to premium glass.

   Wipe the rubber dry after every pass. Overlap each stroke by 2-3 cm.

5. 5

   Final edge detailing

   After squeegeeing, there is always a residual line of water along the bottom edge and at the panel sides. Take a dry cotton rag, fold to a clean corner, and detail these edges in one smooth pass.

   On Viking Window frames, the bottom edge where glass meets the sill requires the most careful attention. Water left here runs into drainage and leaves residue that affects the next clean.

   Rotate the rag to a clean section after every pass. If the rag picks up grit at any point, replace it immediately.

6. 6

   Frame wipe and hardware check

   On Viking Window frames, apply the appropriate product for each surface: pH-neutral for aluminium and glass, solvent-free for uPVC, barely damp cloth for timber. Never cross-contaminate products between surfaces.

   Check that all drainage openings are clear and unobstructed. Water must be able to flow freely -- a blocked channel leads to accumulation that affects seal performance over time.

   Operate every opening window through its full range. Stiff handles or resistance at locking points indicate hardware that needs lubrication. Flag it to the owner rather than forcing it.

Pro Tips

• ★ Separate cloths for aluminium exteriors and pine interiors - products that are safe on powder coating can still mark timber.
• ★ No silicone in glass cleaning products. Viking Window bans silicone-based glass sprays specifically - silicone attracts dirt.
• ★ No WD-40 on Viking Window hardware. Use Ruko lock oil only on locking mechanisms.
• ★ Clean drainage channels twice per year - before winter and after. Blocked drainage causes water pooling in the frame.
• ★ Powder-coat damage from solvents is permanent. There is no repair, only replacement. Keep solvents away from the aluminium exterior.

What NOT To Do

Bundle Kits and Tool Recommendations

Cleaning Frequency

Glass and frames: 2x per year minimum (Inside and out. Urban, coastal, or high-pollution environments: quarterly.). Hardware cleaning (locks, locking points): 2x per year minimum (Wipe clean before lubricating.). Hardware lubrication with Ruko lock oil: 2x per year minimum (Preferably more. Do not substitute WD-40 or general machine oil.). Gasket and seal inspection: 1x per year (Or after heavy storms. Contact installer if deterioration is visible.). Drainage channel check: 2x per year (Once before winter, once after. Clear debris with a soft brush - no sharp tools.)

Frequently Asked Questions

Field Notes

“Glass and frames: minimum twice per year inside and out. Hardware (locking points): clean and lubricate with Ruko lock oil twice per year minimum. Drainage channels: check twice per year - before and after winter. Gaskets: inspect annually - no solvents, ever. Powder-coated aluminium: no solvents, no abrasives, no acids. Damage is permanent.”

Justin Orloff