Josko — Window Cleaning Guide

Quick Facts

Brand at a Glance

Product Range

Why This System

Step 1 of 2: Manufacturer Recommendations

Official Care Guidance

Glass

• ✓Use only mild cleaning products - heavily diluted washing-up liquid or soapy water (Seifenlaugen).
• ✓Use only soft cleaning cloths (weiche Putztücher) - no abrasive materials.
• ✓Never use abrasive, corrosive, or solvent-based cleaning products.
• ✓No high-pressure or steam-cleaning equipment.
• ✕No razor blades, steel wool, or scouring pads.

Timber Interior (Platin, Amber)

• ✓Mild cleaning products only - heavily diluted washing-up liquid or soapy water.
• ✓Soft cotton cloths only - Josko specifies cotton, not microfibre, for wood surfaces.
• ✕Do not allow water to pool on timber - wipe dry promptly after cleaning.
• ✓Interior wood requires no additional care beyond regular cleaning.
• ✓If wood shows signs of wear, contact your Josko Vertriebspartner for specialist advice.

Aluminium Exterior - Warranty Critical

• ✓Soft cloth and mild pH-neutral cleaning solution.
• ✓Rinse with clean water - soap residue attracts dirt and dulls powder-coated aluminium.
• ✓For heavily soiled or chalked surfaces: use the Innotec Service Set 4.
• ✓Professional cleaners must follow GRM guidelines (Güterichtlinien für die Fassadenreinigung).
• ✕Warranty applies only to aluminium demonstrably cleaned 2× per year with approved products. Written documentation and purchase receipts are required.

Hardware

• ✓Annual inspection and lubrication. Remove old grease residue with a dry cloth before applying new.
• ✓Approved: ROTO Beschläge-Fett, Haftöl spray (AX NR. 26-soma-0365), Haftschmierstoff TecLine Beko.
• ✓Open and close the window several times after lubricating to distribute the grease evenly.
• ✕Never use silicone spray - Josko warns explicitly. It evaporates too quickly and fails on concealed hardware.

Seals and Drainage

• ✓Inspect rubber seals (Dichtungen) during every cleaning - cracking, hardening, gaps.
• ✓Use the leaf test: close on a sheet of paper. If it pulls out easily, the seal may need attention.
• ✓Clear drainage openings (Entwässerungsöffnungen) at every glass cleaning.
• ✓On the ONE system, insect screens run within the drainage shaft - clear these channels regardless.

Step 2 of 2: The Orloffs Protocol

The Orloffs Protocol

Pro Tools

My daily tool list. This is what I carry to every job.

Follow these steps in order. Each one builds on the last. This is the same sequence I use on every Josko installation.

1. 1

   Preparation -- before any water touches the glass

   Fill the bucket with at least 10 litres of water. Add soap for cleaning power -- enough to cut through environmental deposits, not so much you are fighting foam.

   Before touching the glass, brush down the surface to remove loose dust, spiderwebs, and debris. Any grit left on the glass during the wash phase risks scratching during agitation.

   Check the aluminium frame condition before you start. Confirm which cleaning product is safe for that surface before opening any bottle.

   Cover anything below the windows that cannot be moved.

2. 2

   Agitation -- apply and work the solution

   Dip the microfiber T-bar completely into the soap water, both sides. Remove excess water with your hand so it does not drip. Apply the solution across the entire glass surface with overlapping passes.

   The goal is to fully dissolve and release every deposit from the glass surface. Anything not released during agitation gets transported across the glass by the squeegee as a smear.

   For stubborn spots -- insect marks, salt residue, environmental deposits -- re-apply soap water and allow it to soak for a full minute before agitating again. Use more soap water, not more pressure.

   For panels above arm reach: attach the T-bar to an extension pole. Work in sections -- top first, then middle, then bottom -- keeping each section wet until you squeegee it.

   Rinse the T-bar cover regularly during the job. A dirty applicator causes microscopic scratches that accumulate over time.

3. 3

   Detail the frame edge before squeegeeing

   Use your 100% cotton towelling rag, finger pressed into the fabric, to work into every junction and remove pooled soap water before the squeegee pass.

   This prevents drips running down onto already-cleaned areas during squeegeeing and keeps soap water out of drainage channels.

   On Josko aluminium frames, pay particular attention to the bottom edge where glass meets the frame sill -- water pooled here runs into drainage openings and leaves residue over time.

4. 4

   The squeegee

   Tilt the squeegee at a slight angle so soap water spills from one side of the channel only -- not both. If the rubber is jumping or squeaking, either the rubber is not lubricated enough or the glass surface has warmed.

   Cutting in: start with the rubber blade making first contact on a dry edge of the glass.

   Side to side: horizontal passes across the panel. Works well on wide sections. Top to bottom: vertical passes down the panel. Works well on tall narrow sections.

   The J tune: one smooth unbroken motion top to bottom, wrist rotating at each end to reverse without lifting the rubber. The most efficient method on larger panels -- but it requires training before applying it to premium glass.

   Wipe the rubber dry after every pass. Overlap each stroke by 2-3 cm.

5. 5

   Final edge detailing

   After squeegeeing, there is always a residual line of water along the bottom edge and at the panel sides. Take a dry cotton rag, fold to a clean corner, and detail these edges in one smooth pass.

   On Josko frames, the bottom edge where glass meets the sill requires the most careful attention. Water left here runs into drainage and leaves residue that affects the next clean.

   Rotate the rag to a clean section after every pass. If the rag picks up grit at any point, replace it immediately.

6. 6

   Frame wipe and hardware check

   On Josko powder-coated aluminium frames: use pH-neutral cleaner only, never abrasive pads or steel wool. Dry immediately after wiping.

   Check that all drainage openings are clear and unobstructed. Water must be able to flow freely -- a blocked channel leads to accumulation that affects seal performance over time.

   Operate every opening window through its full range. Stiff handles or resistance at locking points indicate hardware that needs lubrication. Flag it to the owner rather than forcing it.

Pro Tips

• ★ Keep a cleaning log for aluminium. Date, product, and the purchase receipt. The warranty depends on it - not on the cleaning itself, but on the proof.
• ★ Use cotton cloths on timber. Microfibre marks the wood finish. Keep two cloths - one for wood, one for aluminium - to avoid cross-contamination.
• ★ Never silicone spray on hardware. It is the single most common - and most damaging - Josko maintenance mistake.

What NOT To Do

Bundle Kits and Tool Recommendations

Cleaning Frequency

Glass: 2× per year minimum (4× per year in urban environments, near busy roads, or high-pollution areas.). Aluminium exterior: 2× per year (Warranty requirement, not a recommendation. More frequently in exposed locations.). Timber interior: 2× per year (Mild cleaning solution and cotton cloths.). Hardware: 1× per year (Priority lubrication points: Ecklager (corner bearing) and Axerarm (scissor bearing).). Drainage channels: Every clean (Clear at every glass cleaning. On ONE, insect screens share the drainage shaft.). Seal inspection: 1× per year (Or whenever you notice drafts, increased noise, or difficulty closing.)

Frequently Asked Questions

Field Notes

“Use cotton cloths on timber interior surfaces only - not microfibre. Microfibre can mark the wood finish. Keep two separate cloths - one for wood, one for aluminium - to avoid cross-contamination. Glass: minimum twice per year - four times in urban environments, near busy roads, or high-pollution areas. Aluminium exterior: at least twice per year - warranty requirement, not a recommendation. Hardware: annual lubrication. Priority points are the Ecklager (corner bearing) and Axerarm (scissor bearing). On larch exteriors, expect natural silvering. This is not damage and should not be 'cleaned away' aggressively.”

Justin Orloff