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Europe ยท Window Manufacturer

Crittall Windows โ€” Window Cleaning Guide

๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง United Kingdom ยท Last reviewed by Justin Orloff

crittall windows

Crittall window systems

Quick Facts

founded

1889

hq

Witham, Essex, UK

primaryMaterials

Steel profiles - hot-rolled and cold-rolled. Galvanised and powder-coated.

glazingPartner

Single-pane traditional and modern double-glazed inserts

marketTier

Heritage Premium

Brand at a Glance

  • Country: United Kingdom
  • HQ: Witham, Essex
  • Founded: 1889
  • Material: Steel - hot-rolled and cold-rolled profiles
  • Frame width: From 20mm - narrowest sightlines in the market
  • Market: Listed buildings, Art Deco, factory conversions, contemporary minimalist
  • Climate context: UK - damp, salt air, heritage context, corrosion risk

Product Range

  • W20 system
  • Homelight range
  • Architect range
  • Conservation range

Why This System

Steel corrodes. This is the defining cleaning consideration that separates Crittall from every other window type. Any cleaning product that is acidic - even mildly acidic glass cleaners - can cause oxidation at the steel surface if it contacts bare or paint-degraded steel. Once corrosion starts on a Crittall frame, it requires professional treatment to stop. The iconic 20mm sightlines on Crittall windows are architectural details that define the character of a building - on listed properties, they are legally protected. Physical damage, chemical staining, or corrosion caused by improper cleaning can trigger heritage enforcement issues and significant remediation costs. Crittall windows in heritage applications are often single-glazed - the glass is held in putty glazing rather than a rubber gasket. Putty glazing requires different edge-detail technique from rubber-gasketed modern windows. Modern Crittall systems (Architect range, thermally broken conservation) are powder-coated and behave more like aluminium in terms of surface care. Older Crittall windows may be painted steel or galvanised steel - the surface condition varies significantly.

Step 1 of 2: Manufacturer Recommendations

Official Care Guidance

No official guide published. The steps below are based on Justin Orloff's 25 years hands-on experience with this system.

Step 2 of 2: The Orloffs Protocol

The Orloffs Protocol

This is how I clean Crittall Windows windows. The tools and technique below come from 25 years of daily professional work on the glass. Every step has been tested on real installations and adapted specifically for Crittall Windows systems.

Pro Tools

My daily tool list. This is what I carry to every job.

1Microfiber T-bar applicator, kept clean and rinsed regularly to prevent grit
2Professional squeegee with a fresh rubber blade
3Extension pole for glass above arm height
4Bucket with at least 10 litres of water and enough soap for cleaning power without excess foam
5100% cotton towelling rags for edge detailing
6Vacuum for sill tracks and base profiles

Follow these steps in order. Each one builds on the last. This is the same sequence I use on every Crittall Windows installation.

  1. 1

    Preparation -- before any water touches the glass

    Fill the bucket with at least 10 litres of water. Add soap for cleaning power -- enough to cut through environmental deposits, not so much you are fighting foam.

    Before touching the glass, brush down the surface to remove loose dust, spiderwebs, and debris. Any grit left on the glass during the wash phase risks scratching during agitation.

    Check the steel frame condition before you start. Confirm which cleaning product is safe for that surface before opening any bottle.

    Cover anything below the windows that cannot be moved.

  2. 2

    Agitation -- apply and work the solution

    Dip the microfiber T-bar completely into the soap water, both sides. Remove excess water with your hand so it does not drip. Apply the solution across the entire glass surface with overlapping passes.

    The goal is to fully dissolve and release every deposit from the glass surface. Anything not released during agitation gets transported across the glass by the squeegee as a smear.

    For stubborn spots -- insect marks, salt residue, environmental deposits -- re-apply soap water and allow it to soak for a full minute before agitating again. Use more soap water, not more pressure.

    For panels above arm reach: attach the T-bar to an extension pole. Work in sections -- top first, then middle, then bottom -- keeping each section wet until you squeegee it.

    Rinse the T-bar cover regularly during the job. A dirty applicator causes microscopic scratches that accumulate over time.

  3. 3

    Detail the frame edge before squeegeeing

    Use your 100% cotton towelling rag, finger pressed into the fabric, to work into every junction and remove pooled soap water before the squeegee pass.

    This prevents drips running down onto already-cleaned areas during squeegeeing and keeps soap water out of drainage channels.

    On Crittall steel frames, pay particular attention to the bottom edge where glass meets the frame sill -- water pooled here runs into drainage openings and leaves residue over time.

  4. 4

    The squeegee

    Tilt the squeegee at a slight angle so soap water spills from one side of the channel only -- not both. If the rubber is jumping or squeaking, either the rubber is not lubricated enough or the glass surface has warmed.

    Cutting in: start with the rubber blade making first contact on a dry edge of the glass.

    Side to side: horizontal passes across the panel. Works well on wide sections. Top to bottom: vertical passes down the panel. Works well on tall narrow sections.

    The J tune: one smooth unbroken motion top to bottom, wrist rotating at each end to reverse without lifting the rubber. The most efficient method on larger panels -- but it requires training before applying it to premium glass.

    Wipe the rubber dry after every pass. Overlap each stroke by 2-3 cm.

  5. 5

    Final edge detailing

    After squeegeeing, there is always a residual line of water along the bottom edge and at the panel sides. Take a dry cotton rag, fold to a clean corner, and detail these edges in one smooth pass.

    On Crittall frames, the bottom edge where glass meets the sill requires the most careful attention. Water left here runs into drainage and leaves residue that affects the next clean.

    Rotate the rag to a clean section after every pass. If the rag picks up grit at any point, replace it immediately.

  6. 6

    Frame wipe and hardware check

    On Crittall steel frames: dry immediately after any water contact. Steel corrodes if moisture is left on the surface -- edge drying is not optional.

    Check that all drainage openings are clear and unobstructed. Water must be able to flow freely -- a blocked channel leads to accumulation that affects seal performance over time.

    Operate every opening window through its full range. Stiff handles or resistance at locking points indicate hardware that needs lubrication. Flag it to the owner rather than forcing it.

Watch the Window Cleaning Manifesto hereSee these techniques in action. Free, 5 minutes, lifetime access.

Pro Tips

  • Before the first clean of any Crittall window, run a damp finger along the frame face and check for rust transfer onto your finger - this tells you immediately whether the surface protection layer has failed
  • On Crittall windows with small pane geometries (typical of W20 heritage systems), use a small squeegee channel 25 to 30cm - a wide channel cannot be controlled within the narrow pane dimensions
  • Always work with less solution on Crittall than on aluminium or uPVC - a dryer application means less cleaning solution running off onto the frame face

What NOT To Do

  • CRITICAL: Do not use any acidic glass cleaner, vinegar solution, or citrus-acid product near Crittall steel frames - causes immediate surface corrosion
  • Do not use alkaline cleaning products on powder-coated modern Crittall systems
  • Do not allow water to sit on unpainted or paint-degraded steel frame sections
  • Do not insert tools into old putty glazing joints
  • Do not attempt to remove rust from Crittall frames - document and refer to heritage specialist
  • Do not pressure wash Crittall windows - pressure forcing water into putty joints causes putty failure and water ingress

Bundle Kits and Tool Recommendations

Bundle Kit

Orloffs Squeegee Pro Pack flat lay
Pro KitThe full professional setup. Brass squeegees, T-bar with applicator cover, tool belt, rags, soap, and bucket. Everything from the daily tool list in one box.Shop now โ†’
Orloffs Squeegee Pro Pack bundled

Cleaning Frequency

Clean every 4โ€“8 weeks depending on environment.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I clean Crittall Windows windows?
For Crittall Windows windows, we recommend cleaning twice a year depending on your local environment. Coastal or urban locations may need more frequent cleaning.
What tools do I need for Crittall Windows windows?
Professional cleaning of Crittall Windows windows requires my daily tool list of: Microfiber T-bar applicator, kept clean and rinsed regularly to prevent grit, Professional squeegee with a fresh rubber blade, Extension pole for glass above arm height, Bucket with at least 10 litres of water and enough soap for cleaning power without excess foam, 100% cotton towelling rags for edge detailing, Vacuum for sill tracks and base profiles.
What should I avoid on Crittall Windows windows?
CRITICAL: Do not use any acidic glass cleaner, vinegar solution, or citrus-acid product near Crittall steel frames - causes immediate surface corrosion
Does Crittall Windows publish an official cleaning guide?
Crittall Windows has not published an official cleaning guide. The protocol on this page is based on Justin Orloff's 25 years hands-on experience.
Can I use a water-fed pole on Crittall Windows windows?
Yes, purified water via a water-fed pole is one of the safest methods for Crittall Windows glass. Ensure TDS is at or near zero before use and avoid directing high-pressure water at seals or gaskets.

Field Notes

โ€œCrittall windows in coastal UK locations face compounded risk - salt air is corrosive to steel and the frequent rain that characterises coastal UK keeps the steel surface wet between cleans. Inspect frame condition at every visit. Art Deco commercial buildings with Crittall windows in UK city centres often have 80 to 100 year old frames. The surface protection on these frames is compromised in many cases - treat every such window as potentially bare steel until you have confirmed the frame condition. Modern Crittall Architect range systems in contemporary homes are thermally broken and powder-coated - clean these as you would any quality powder-coated aluminium frame. The risk profile is lower than heritage steel, but pH-neutral products are still required.โ€

Justin Orloff